Schäfer-Fröhlich Vulkangestein 2022

The 2022 Riesling Vulkangestein is a blend half from Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg and half from the Bockenauer Stromberg, from 20-30-year-old vines that do not yet make it into the GGs, an honor that goes to the 40-50-year-old vines. The nose still has some yeasty funk, but underneath a fruity clarity becomes apparent, almost with a tropical overtone of pineapple. The very slender mouth feel, however, is taut, stony, salty, with an edge of white pepper and nutmeg. With really subtle spice on a very lemony, driven taut and almost tingling palate. Spicy, pure, zesty and racy. (Bone-dry)

By Anne Krebiehl MW July 2023