Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2007

The Haags’ 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spatlese trocken features peach and pink grapefruit in the nose, and on an effusively ripe, luscious palate that is shot through with strikingly briny minerality. A faintly oily texture amplifies the relative fullness born of both the wine’s 13% alcohol and high extract. While impressively clinging, this doesn’t display the invigoration or elegance of the corresponding Juffer. Still, it’s strikingly impressive wine, and may well become even more interesting over the next 6-8 years. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. (DS, 6/2009)