The enormously endowed 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (a 550-case blend of 70-year old Grenache) reveals a knock-out nose of licorice, kirsch liqueur, pepper, herbs, and spice. It is long and opulent, with oodles of sweet glycerin, great purity, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. Let me explain how these efforts, the most exciting negociant offerings of the southern Rhone, are produced. The owners of this high quality firm are Michel Tardieu, who sources the wines, and Dominique Laurent, the well-known Burgundy winemaker who has caused such an uproar in the Cote d'Or. Their cellars are in the beautiful village of Lourmarin. The wines are made according to minimalist theories. After purchasing finished wines from growers who only possess old vines and tiny yields, the wines are transferred by Tardieu to oak barrels made to the specifications of Dominique Laurent. They spend two years, virtually untouched, in oak. Sulphur additions are minimal. There is no racking of the wines, and bottling is accomplished without fining or filtration. This is what is called "reductive winemaking," and these brilliant efforts capture the essence of their particular appellations. Moreover, they possess tremendous upside aging potential. After purchasing these cuvees in nearly every vintage, I have learned that they are very closed and backward upon release. They need tremendous amounts of aeration prior to consumption. The finest cuvees demand a minimum of 5-6 years of aging, even in lighter vintages. The lower tier of wines, such as the Cotes du Rhones, are meant to be drunk during their first 5-7 years of life. Even they need decanting/aeration in order to blossom. Bottom line ... this is an extraordinary source of top quality wines.
By Robert M. Parker, Jr. February 2003
