Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 2012

The 2012 Barolo Pajana represents an important stylistic change. Domenico Clerico is increasingly moving away from small barrique and is embracing more large Slavonian oak casks. In fact, this wine sees equal use of both small and large wood. The end result is terrific and the wine is both elegant and powerful down to its inner core. The aromas are fine and sharp, and the mouthfeel is textured and rich. Those of us who have followed the evolution of this innovative estate would probably associate Domenico Clerico with contemporary wines and French barrique. But this stylistic trend is not totally unexpected given a region-wide desire to return to roots.

By Minica Larner June 2017