The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru was broody when I first tasted it from barrel. In bottle it has certainly opened up nicely, quintessentially "Morey" in style with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and a very subtle herbal element that derives from a summer that was less warm than 2016 or 2018. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gentle grip and fine-boned tannins. There is wonderful salinity towards the finish, open and dare I say, virtually ready for business. Does it have the substance to deliver long-term cellaring? Of that, I am not so sure, but I don't think this wine really cares to be quite honest. [Readers should note that this markedly improved the second evening after opening, evolving greater cohesion and a little more corpulence.]
By Neal Martin on February 2021