Dönnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Spatlese 2022

From shale, the 2022 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese is subtle on the nose. The merest flicker of reduction precedes distant perfumes of ripe pear, stone fruit and lifted, serene citrus peel in the green-to-yellow spectrum. The palate holds rounded sweetness, seemingly edged by tealeaf, stoniness and lime peel. The citrus takes over, providing serene and profound aromatics, lasting, elegant and pure. Despite the sugar, sweetness almost stops registering in these alluring flavors that push freshness much more than sweetness. The 2022 is a sleeper, slow and profound, but with proper mileage. (Sweet)

By Anne Krebiehl MW June 2023