Dönnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese 2022

The 2022 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese is from a site that combines weathered shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, "but essentially the vines root in Tonschiefer or shale," Helmut says. It is not a steep site; in the valley, cold air flows at night, and the days are hot. This has the biggest day-night amplitude and is close to the river. The nose is of confounding aromatic complexity: green elements of citrus, think lime jelly, citrus leaf. The palate has a tropical intensity that brings passion fruit, lime, mango and much more intense sweetness that is always cut with vivid acidity. The 2022 is wonderfully exciting, hair-raising, almost joyful, or, as Helmut calls it, "crazy." Simply wonderful. (Sweet)

By Anne Krebiehl MW June 2023