Kiedricher Grafenberg Spatlese 2009

Strong scents of heliotrope and lilac on the nose of Weils 2009 Kiedricher Grafenberg Spatlese waft onto a palate limeade- and white peach sorbet-like in its strongly-sweet, refreshing succulence. At the same time, an amalgam of chalk, salt, and alkali offers striking counterpoint. Hints of caramel and marzipan point to a ripeness enhanced vis-a-vis this collections other Spatlesen – even if there was in fact, as Wilhelm Weil maintains, no botrytis present here – and these flavors, along with suggestions of honey, mount en route to a finish seductively complex, vibrantly citric, and sensationally persistent. This should be worth following for at least 25 years. (DS, 12/2010)