Le Gay 2019 (75 CL)

The 2019 Le Gay is rich and powerful, offering up aromas of cherries, berry fruit liqueur, kirsch and dark chocolate, framed by a lavish application of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, broad and layered, it's a ripe, heady wine with low acidity and plenty of powdery tannin, showing a touch of alcoholic heat on the finish. From a site that naturally delivers early and elevated maturity, with heat-retentive gravel over clay soils, it's all fermented in barrel to permit extreme selection, picking small lots within parcels in pursuit of optimal maturity. There's no doubting the quality of the site or the attention to detail in the cellar, but to my palate, this flirts with over-ripeness; my score gives it the benefit of the doubt.