Dönnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Spatlese 2007

Gardenia, peony, and resinous herbs in the nose of Donnhoff's 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese give way to a palpably extract-rich palate of vibratory intensity, suffused with stony, saline, and tactile suggestions of mineral matter, yet at the same time rich orchard fruits. If the Krotenpfuhl was painted with water colors, the medium here is definitely oil, exhibiting both dynamic and intricate brush work as well as dense layering. This masterpiece - picked simultaneously with the corresponding Grosses Gewachs - was only beginning to show its depth in the spring and needed almost six months in bottle to really shine forth. Take as long as fate permits you to savor this; I can't imagine it disappointing a quarter century or more from now. (DS, 10/2009)