Oberhauser Brucke Auslese AP #19 2007 DEMI

The 2007 Oberhaueser Brucke Riesling Auslese A.P.#19, remarks Donnhoff, is what would have traditionally been labeled -feine Auslese,- which I suppose you could call -gold capsule Auslese- if you like. The grapes weren't ripe enough to merit feinste, in other words, but this is pretty damned fine! Red currant, blueberry, honey, and brown spices stream from the glass and saturate the palate, where the contrast of bright high tones of citrus and fruit distillates with low notes of nut oil, browned butter, and malt recapitulates with greater intensity and refinement the already amazing diversity exhibited by the Spatlese. In fact, granted Donnhoff's point that Spatlese offers the ideal level at which to survey the vineyard, this particular Auslese seems like a crystal-clear aerial photograph of a great site and its fruit, each wealth of details mirrored in a long-drawn-out finish. No doubt 30 years won't find it past prime.me other vintage, at least when measured against its great Middle Mosel counterparts.

 - By David Schildknecht on 31th of October 2009, Wine Advocate