Ulysse Collin Pierrieres 36 mo sur lie (Base 2017, deg 2021)

Disgorged in March 2021 after 36 months sur lattes, Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2017) is based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by fully 70% reserve wines. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers and wet stones that are framed by a deft patina from its élevage, it's a full-bodied, vinous Champagne with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, concentrated mid-palate. Chalky and incisive, it concludes with a long, saline finish. As ever, this cuvée—which takes its name from the black flints that abound in the chalk in this area—is worth a special effort to seek out.

By William Kelley September 2021