Riesling Niersteiner Hipping Kabinett 2018

As with this wine’s vintage 2017 predecessor, the nose is ravishingly floral, this time suggestive of honeysuckle, orange blossom and lemon grass, from behind which emerge intimations of the white peach, grapefruit and quince that are the principal fruity players on a buoyant, silken palate. Once again, too, sweetness here is perfectly judged, so as to support the fruit while backing off on the finish, thus enhancing its remarkable transparency to smoky, stony and saline as well as floral and herbal nuances – about which one could go on shaking one’s head and expounding at length. Succulent and seductive, yes; feather-light, check; but the cut, definition, penetration and tingling animation are what most decisively point to the extent of Keller’s success. Not only do they testify to an efficacious acidity rare for the vintage, but more profoundly, they testify to Keller’s remarkable aptitude for harnessing the energy of his vines and the potential of a great site. (You may see this wine referred to as “Gold Capsule” – and it does indeed carry a gold capsule – or as “Prince Louis.” But it’s all the same Hipping Kabinett, A.P. #35, which sold at auction for an eye-watering price. For more on the location of Keller’s Hipping vines and their connection with English royalty, consult my tasting note on his 2014 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling HM.)

- By David Schildknecht on September 2019