Riesling Spatlese Felsenturmchen 2007

Donnhoff's 2007 Riesling Spatlese Felsenturmchen once again reflects a particular (cooler, stonier) portion of the Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg high up and well back from the Nahe. Gentian, red currant, citrus oils, and a whiff of smoke in the nose usher in a rich, sappy, subtly creamy yet tremendously refreshing palate in which tropical mango and citrus meet Northern European red currant. A lick of salt adds invigoration to the long finish. This misses the dazzling complexity and subtlety of the Krotenpfuhl or the ethereal florality of the Kirschheck, but it is built to last, and over the next two decades I am sure there will be times when it overtakes them not to mention overwhelms those lucky enough to have cellared some with its beauty. (DS, 10/2009)