Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut 1985

Knockout aromas of lemon, lime, toffee, grilled nuts, nutmeg and minerals; conveys a strong impression of soil character. Great thickness and brightness in the mouth; offers a compelling combination of lemon and orange citricity and complex yeast autolysis notes, and near-perfect harmony of young and maturing elements. This outstanding, elegant Champagne shows an extraordinary creamy richness yet is still rather folded in on itself. Has the sheer structure and grip to develop in bottle for a decade or two. Finishes with great nutty length.

By Stephen Tanzer November 1999