Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck GG 2022

The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs is made from vines between 60-65 years old, Fröhlich’s site with the highest average vine age. The nose has an exotic notion that flickers somehow between pineapple and lemon. The palate is super-light, clear and crystalline. Underneath, however, there is a concentration that seems like a salty, unforgiving, uncompromising rock. Tim Fröhlich has 8.5ha across three terraces and says: "This is why we have great potential here." It is a liquid that seems like lemon-scented air. There are no frills, just stone, citrus and saltiness. Wait for this. It comes on light feet. Absolutely clear-cut and for adults only. (Bone-dry)

By Anne Krebiehl MW July 2023