Ulysse Collin Les Enfers 48 mo sur lie (Base 2015, deg 2020)

Disgorged with two grams per liter dosage in March 2020, the newly released NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2015) is based on the 2015 vintage, complemented by some 15% reserve wines. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, crisp white peach, spring blossom, warm bread and buttery pastry, it's full-bodied, layered and muscular, with terrific concentration, lively acids and chalky dry extract, concluding with a saline finish. I can't wait to revisit it with more time on cork, as it's still a little reserved after its recent disgorgment. By William Kelley March 2021