Ulysse Collin Les Enfers 60 mo sur lie (Base 2015, deg 2021)

The NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2015) 60 months is spectacular, soaring from the glass with a dramatic bouquet of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, anise, beeswax, white flowers and almonds. Full-bodied, layered and complete, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, penetratingly saline finish. This late-disgorged version of Les Enfers is produced in very small quantities, but readers who can secure a bottle or two shouldn't hesitate.

By William Kelley September 2021