Ulysse Collin Les Maillons 48 mo sur lie (Base 2019, Deg 2024)

Collin’s NV Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2019 base) 48 months, disgorged in February 2024, is, as I’ve noted earlier, the first release of this cuvée to be aged for four years and, with additional time in the cellar, is now drinking superbly. The wine is expanding aromatically, offering notes of mirabelle plum, pear, almond paste and spice mingled with orange oil, followed by a full-bodied, muscular palate that is simultaneously grandiose and sapid, structured around a rich, layered core of fruit underpinned by ripe yet lively acidity. It is marginally deeper and more complete—even if there was already little to fault, to put it mildly—than the original release of this same rendition. It is difficult to think of anyone other than Olivier Collin who has put the Côteaux du Sézannais on the map.

By Kristaps Karklins April 2026