Ulysse Collin Les Pierrières 48 mo sur lie (Base 2018, Deg 2023)

Disgorged in February 2023 after 48 months on the lees, Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières is based on the 2018 vintage, complemented by some 40% reserve wines. Unwinding in the glass with notes of sweet citrus fruits and pear mingled with notions of quince, hazelnuts and almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and racy, with a broad attack that segues into a vinous, muscular mid-palate, concluding with a chalky finish. Readers will note that with this release, there are no longer two different disgorgements of Les Pierrières; instead, Collin has opted to age the entire tirage for the full 48 months before disgorgement.

By William Kelley December 2023