Ulysse Collin Les Roises 60 mo sur lie (Base 2017, deg 2023)

Incorporating 20% reserve wines, Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2017) 60 months is especially compelling this year, exhibiting more density and structure than Les Enfers. Unwinding in the glass with notes of confit citrus, white flowers, sweet orchard fruit, praline and struck flint, it's full-bodied, satiny and vinous, with terrific concentration, racy acids and an abundance of chalky structuring extract, reflecting the quality that Chardonnay could attain in the 2017 vintage in the hands of one of the variety's masters.

By William Kelley December 2023