Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese 2006

“This represents a late botrytis selection for parcels where we would normally harvest Kabinett,” says Vollenweider by way of introducing his 2006 Wolfer Goldgrube Auslese (A.P. #13), “but I couldn’t add it to the Portz or Reiler bottlings because that’s not where it comes from, and not to the gold capsule Auslese because it didn’t have the class.” A dusty, smoky cast to the nose spells “botrytis,” and in the mouth this is imposingly creamy, fat, and honeyed. Dried peaches and hits of white raisin well up in a satisfying if not notably elegant finish. There is no point to holding this, but it can give plenty of immediate pleasure, and beyond that is interesting as a reflection of its vintage. “We started picking immediately after the October 3rd rain, and then under high pressure,” relates Daniel Vollenweider. Already then, there was little to be harvested below Auslese, not surprising considering the general trends this vintage and the fact that Vollenweider, as a friend to botryits in normal times, never sprays to keep it at bay. But in a departure from the norm, one cask had reached ten grams of residual sugar by the end of last summer and Vollenweider decided he might as well taste what a truly dry Wolfer Goldgrube Spatlese would be like! (I have not connected with the bottled wine.) A second major vineyard reclamation project in the Schimbock – a once-renowed riverside parcel within today’s Trabener Wurzgarten – is where Vollenweider intends to specialize in dry Riesling. (DS, 10/2008)