Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule 2005 DEMI

The 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule evokes high-toned lemon oil, wood smoke, and honey. Quince preserves, poached pear, brown spices, and candied lemon saturate the palate, with remarkable clarity of fruit and delicacy even as the wine impresses with its sheer opulence and its creamy texture. After the heady intensity of the palate, this finishes almost mysteriously, but very much in keeping with the delicacy and refinement of the whole, displaying subtle notes of truffle, brown spices, baking bread, and essences of pear, quince, and caramelized apricot. There is a wealth of material here that will keep you occupied for hours, and I would suggest putting this near the top of ones list if shopping for ageworthy and potentially iconic nobly sweet 2005s. (DS, 10/2006)